Kumano Koda - Day 4

We both felt it was time to take it easy on ourselves. The wet weather and long days was causing a bit of angst between us. So instead of walking all the way to our next destination we elected to walk back to Hongu and catch the bus. The rain cleared and we were glad to see some of the old spa village Yumonine Onsen. The hub of the village located on both sides of a stream.

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Famous is a communal cooking area. The water is so hot that the villagers used to, and still cook in its waters. A favourite for tourists is to boil eggs in it.

There was a heritage listed spa which allows 2 people at a time. You need to pay for a time to use it, based on a first come - first served basis. I read, that in order to avoid disappointment, queue up early as it is often booked out and queues are long. However, due to the Covid-19 accommodation cancellations occurring at a rapid rate, there was plenty of opportunity should we wished to have had a soak. Being somewhat saturated at our stay in the J-Hoppers backpackers we had no desire to have another spa.

Even though the walk was less than an hour, with our diversions due to poor navigation and decision making on my behalf, we decided to leave at around 10:30am, giving us plenty of time to get our 2pm bus or a later one should we miss it.

Early on the track out we saw a snake. Nearly stepped on it, forgetting that Japan does have them. How silly to think Australia is unique in that regard ! Being early spring and in the lower latitudes of Japan they are starting to wake up from their hibernated state. Gratefully, we only saw the one. It is probably a good idea to wear canvas gaiters in the warmer months for a bit of added protection.

We realised our folly for not wishing to walk the track yesterday. Yes it was steep, but it was much shorter than our road route and a lot more pleasant. Walking by the road was quite stressful with all the noise from even a single vehicle, after you have enjoying several hours of solitude in the forest.

Here is the entry point we missed yesterday: obvious if you are in the right place of course. It is tricky because there are a few signs for Kumano Koda in Hongu as Yumomine Onsen is an optional route alternative.

In Hongu we went to the visitor centre, where the staff were very helpful with details about the bus, good places to eat for lunch and the boat should we wish to go explore the river. The place we had lunch at was a good dining experience. We felt a bit out of place with our somewhat slovenly hiking gear, but our hosts made us welcome. The food was delicious and very reasonably priced.

Buses service most of the villages. The system is very efficient and runs on time. It would be a rare occasion that a bus - or train for that matter runs late. Unlike the buses in Australia, they will not leave early either. When you board a bus you grab a ticket at the entry. This ticket has a number on it. There is a display board at the front that indicates the price for that ticket number when you stop. Credit card is not accepted, a sophisticated machine deals with the cash and change, though exact money is preferred.

There was a display board at the front that indicates the price for that ticket number when you stop. Credit card is not accepted, a sophisticated machine deals with the cash and change, though exact money is preferred.

There are not many options for accommodation in Koguchi, and it is rather expensive compared to the other places. The accommodation was in a refurbished school house. Outside the building didn't look much, but what a pleasant surprise once we went inside. I am glad we decided to stay here, it was a shame we had to leave the next day.

The bedroom had good linen and for fun, we had some traditional garb to play dress ups in.

Of course, a bath is part and parcel with the deal. All to myself, and Steph had her own as well (very few guests today).

School dinner doesn't get any better than this.

A meal, especially if in accommodation or a restaurant is a painstaking affair of presentation. The portions though seemingly small are quite filling once you have eaten each dish.